Vienna, Austria

We arrived in Vienna this morning around 7AM - the capital of the Republic of Austria.  After breakfast, we boarded a bus for a bus tour of the old town.  It is quite a contrast from the Danube.  On one side (the view from our room) - there is the newer section with modern buildings with interesting architecture - and on the other side is the old town with baroque castles, and grand buildings and monuments.  We drove around to see many sites - the Hotel Sacher (home of the one and only origianl Sacher Torte), the Schönnbrunn Palace, the Ringstrasse, the Vienna State Opera, The Ritz Carleton, The Imperial Hotel, City Hall, and Hapsburg Palace.  We learned that Vienna has its roots in early Celtic and Roman settlements.  It became the resident city for the Hapsburg dynasty in the late Middle Ages and grew to become the capital of the Holy Roman Empire and a cultural center for arts, science, music, and fine cuisine.   We then got off the buses to take a walking tour where we were able to see the Lipizzaner Stallions, the cafe where Sigmund Freud loved to hang out.  We walked the street with all the most expensive stores from Chopard, to Louis Vuitton, to Tommy Hilfiger, to the Gentleman's Store.  Amazingly the prices (noted in the window) are even higher than they are at home!  At the top of the street was Julian Meir - a grocery store that is like Harrods or the Bon Marche.  Our tour ended at the St. Stephen's Cathedral at which point we were free to enjoy the city (or return to the boat).  Andy and I chose to explore the city.  first we toured in St. Stephens.  It was built between 1263 and 1511, and is the symbol of the city.  It is 450 feet high at the top of the tower, making it one of the most impressive churches in Europe. After the church, we wandered in and out of stores and enjoyed the sites.  We meandered through Julian Meir - where they had everything from crackers to 7999 euro cognac.  We enjoyed looking at all the candies, the different kinds of meats (such as chicken hearts), pates, cheeses, and everything in between.  We also went to Demels ( a famous Viennese cafe)  and watched the pastry chefs make wedding cakes.  They made a bride and groom from marzipan (that looked amazing) and covered the top in marzipan roses.  Of course we had to have a coffee at this famous cafe - and an apfelstrudel (as the Austrians are famous for their apfelstrudel).  We walked that off taking a tour of the Hapsburg Palace - taking the silver tour (which showcased all of the silver, porcelain, and serving pieces of the Palace (the amount of stuff was somewhat overwhelming).  We then toured the Palace apartments, and learned more about Empress Sisi (who was thought of like Lady Di of the times - but definitely had some issues - but who wouldn't being betrothed at age 15).  We had heard that the best schnitzel in Vienna was to be had at Figlmuller restaurant - so we went and split an order.  (Thank god we chose to split it, as I have never seen something so big served on a plate in a restaurant in my life).  It was very good and a charming restaurant where you are seated with total strangers.  We had to have schnitzel in Austria - because again - we were told that they are famous for their schnitzel.  I can tell you it is good.  We then walked in and around the streets within the Ringstrasse eventually ending up in the Christmas Market.  After perusing all of the vendors at the market - we started our journey back to the boat.  What trip to Vienna would be complete thought without visiting the Sacher Hotel where the famous Sacher torte had originated.  Apparently the palace many years ago was having a dinner and the usual chef became ill.  His replacement chef (his underling) had to create a memorable dessert that would please the visiting dignitaries.  He took 18 hours and created the Sacher torte (his name was Sacher) - everyone loved it and now there is a torte, a hotel, a cafe etc named after him.  I must say that the Sacher torte at the Sacher cafe was the best Sacher torte I have ever had.  Well worth taking the time to experience it.  We then navigated our way back to the boat on the Vienna Subway system.  It was a nice day.  We had a late dinner - and sat with some artists from New York/New Jersey before retiring to bed.  Tonight we are off to Bratislava, Slovakia.  

 Statue in the Ringstrasse

 One of the famous Lipizzaner Stallions - the Black are less common

 One of the White Lipizzaner Stallions

 The Imperial Palace

 For Molly

 Julius Meir is the Vienna equivalent to Harrods

 Monument to the Plague

 St. Stephans Cathedral

Inside St. Stephans

 Chopard (for Molly) and Demel's (famous bakery that opened in 1786)

 cake decorator's working at Demels - the intricacy was amazing

 Of course we had to eat something there

 What's a visit to Vienna without tasting Apfelstrudel

 Andy in front of Cafe Griensteid - famous haunt of Sigmund Freud

 Palace horse tour

 Silver Collection at Palace

 table setting at palace

Napkin folding display

 Stuffed bear at the Steif Shop

Restaurant famous for their schnitzel

 one "small" order of schnitzel

 cool building

 high end shopping area all decorated in lights

 lights are actually chandeliers

 more lights on a side street

 the palace

another cathedral

 Sunset in Vienna

 Christmas Market

Tuesday Part Two - Dürnstein

After leaving Melk - we cruised down the river. It was raining lightlly (it's about 2 degrees - so not quite cold enough for snow today). The views between Melk and Dürnstein are supposed to be among the best on the Danube. We saw Schönbühel Palace (known as the watchman of the Wachau) belonged to Passau in the beginning of the 9th century. Then we passed the ruins of the Aggstein Castle (where once lived the Kuenringer clan - a family of robber barons who plundered passing merchant ships and wagons from their perch. We passed the city of Willendorf (a small village that gained notoriety in 1908 when the paleolithic stone carving known as Venus of Willendorf was unearth here (a small statue of a sturdy woman carved from oolitic limestone - some 30,000 years old). Next city was Arnsdorf - where Franz Gruber played organ at church and then wrote the music for Silent Night. We also passed Spitz - a wine growing town, Weissenkirchen - another wine-growing village. Finally after about two hours on the river, we arrived in Dürnstein. Dürnstein has only 900 residents - but attracts about 1.3 million tourists every year (you wouldn't know it at this time of year as most things were closed). It is considered one of the most romantic places in the Wachau Valley - and is famous for its wine, produced in the surrounding picturesque, terraced vineyards. Dürnstein is German for "dry stone," the material upon which the town is built. There is a fortress built high on the hill (we couldn't go up there as it was too slippery and dark). In the towering walls of the fortress, Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned in 1193 for insulting Leopold V, the Duke of Dürnstein. The Parish Church (Pfarrkirche) was originally part of an Augustine monastery. The blue church tower is considered to be one of the finest architectural landmarks in the Danube valley. The Wachau valley is known also for its nectarous Apricot spirits. We were able to sample the Apricot liqueurs and of course we had to buy one. They also make their own whiskey (which Andy sampled and said was quite good. Dürnstein is a pretty town (pictures were hard to get as it was dark by 4:30). We have a lecture tonight followed by dinner. At midnight we leave for Vienna.

Dock at Melk made from old ship

Schönbühel Palace

Schönbühel Palace and Monastary

Schönbühel Palace

Monastary

Village church

Aggstein castle

Views on the Danube

Dürnstein Castle

Pfarrkirche Dürnstein

Dürnstein

Andy and accordionist

Our ship at night

Tuesday Part One - Melk

Hoping that everyone who has already seen yesterday's post - looks again - it took a long time to load the pictures - so more were added this morning.  The internet here is very slow.  We woke up in Melk today.  After breakfast - we went to the top of the hill to tour the Benediktiner Stift (aka Melk Abbey).  Melk has been an important spiritual and cultural center in Austria for over 1000 years.  Once the residence of the ruling Babenberg family - it became a Benedictine monastary in 1089 founded by Leopold II.  For more that 900 years - monks have lived and worked in Stift Melk following the rules laid down by St. Benedict.  The monastery has been destroyed and rebuilt several times.  The Benedictine moniks are active in the parishes, the school (which has exchange students from as far as Minnesota), the local economy, culture and tourism.  The tour of the Abbey was interesting- the library quite amazing - being one of the largest in Austria with 100,000 books dating back centuries and in over 15 different languages.  No photos were allowed in the library - but believe me when I say it was amazing.    The church was also quite spectacular.  After touring the abbey - we walked back to the ship through town (about 1-2 blocks long) and were treated to a traditional Austrian lunch.  They had 3 kinds of sausages, fried chicken (who knew that fried chicken was traditional Austrian food), ham infused with cheese (tasted kind of like hot bologna), minestrone soup (which was like a meld of chicken noodle and vegetable), pretzels, potato salad, tomatoes, and pepperonis.  It was served with free Austrian beer (which Andy much enjoyed).  After lunch we set sail for Durnstein (which I will cover in the next post after loading more pictures).  

Linz at Night

View of Melk from the Abbey

Melk Abbey - aka Bendiktiner Stift

Abbey

Fresco's repainted in the 80"s - did more modern art

Ornate staircase of Abbey

View of Melk

 Smaller river through Melk - going to meet Danube

 Inside church of the Abbey

 They had skeletons of saints on display

 Downtown Melk (very small city)

 Abbey view from river

Very cool house built right into the stone (now covered in ivy)